Henri Bonneau (1938-2016) was 12th generation of a family of wine growers. He made his first vintage in 1956. His domaine covers only 6.5 ha., mainly planted with Grenache that counts for about 90% of the blend added with small amounts of Mourvedre, Counoise and Vaccarese.
90% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, Counoise & Vaccarese
One of the latest to pick, the fruit for the Reserve des Celestins comes from the famed la Crau lieu-dit, from vines of around 30 years old.
The grapes are lightly crushed with 100% whole cluster, then ferments for three weeks in concrete tanks with frequent pump-overs for gentle extraction. Press wine is added and the wine is aged in a range of neutral barrels that are not younger than 10 years old.
The wines are made all the same way, and the distinction between each Cuvee is decided just a few weeks before bottling.
Tasting Note
Wine Advocate 95-97, Jeb Dunnuck
Looking at the barrels designated for the 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Célestins, which always comes from the famed la Crau lieu-dit, it offers a big, mouth-filling, chewy profile as well as classic dark fruits, garrigue, pot roast, pepper and cured meats aromas and flavors. It has lots of tannin, but everything is perfectly ripe, and this is a sensational looking effort. It’s worth noting that this will be the last wine ever vinified by Henri, and it certainly looks to be a fitting tribute to an incredible winemaker.
With the recent passing of Henri Bonneau early in 2016, this iconic estate is at a crossroads. The winemaking is now in the hands of Henri’s son, Marcel Bonneau, and while he’s worked side by side with Henri for most of his life, it remains to be seen if he can follow in his father’s footsteps. He’s getting advice and support from a number of incredibly talented people and I’m optimistic, and certainly wishing him the best going forward. During my annual visit, I was able to taste barrel samples from 2015 back to 2011, as well as a bottle of the 1998. I purchased a bottle of the current 2009 Reserve Célestins locally to include as well.
Published: Oct 29, 2016
